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Care & Maintenance
Posted on 14th Apr 2011 @ 11:52 AM
Kote: Breaking-In
Kote require breaking in, for proper and comfortable fit, and to allow the ulnar flexion articulation of the wrist known as “te-no-uchi” or strike with the hands, that is the final motion of extension that completes the transfer of energy along the kinetic chain from arms on to the shinai.
Proper breaking-in of kote will not only allow for better techinical execution of techniques, but the kote, functioning more ergnometrically, will wear less, and give longer, better life.
(1) Maintaining the long axis of the kote upright, with the opposite hand press down on the kashira, the hand part of the kote, and rotate the kashira in a circular motion to break-in the wrist.
(2) While wearing one kote, with the opposite hand, curl the thumb and small finger edges diagonally inward, to form the same shape as you would while holding the shinai.
(3) While wearing one kote, with the index and middle finger of the free hand, gently pull on the kote at the edge formed between the index finger and thumb, to form a rounded shape that matches the contour required when holding the shinai. To ensure the correct shape is being formed, occasionally forming kamae with the hands in proper positions will serve as a simple check.
4) While wearing the kote, holding the shinai, and forming the correct grip with one hand, hold the shinai with the opposite hand about the middle of the shinai, and lever the shinai back in forth in the same postion and motion as you would when swinging the shinai. Following all the steps above, this should serve to fine-tune all the break-in steps for a good fitting and comfortable kote.
(5) The futon, the cushion protecting the wrist, should be gently rolled into a straight barrel shape, rather than being allowed to taper, with either end smaller than the other. Also, just as your wrist is oval and not completely cylindrical, the 'barrel" of the kote should be oval shaped as well. Be careful to keep the cords loose enough to insert three or 4 fingers of the opposite hand, up to the knuckles, into the space between the futon and the wrist. This space is necessary for movement, ventilation, and as an air-gap diminshing direct transmission of strikes from shinai-to-kote-to-wrist. The kote will be much more comfortable and provide better protection when fitted this way.
(*) Spraying the kote with water around the area where you are going to work on (i.e.: wrist articulation; web between thumb and index finger; and in general the palms,) will make the materials softer, and more easily broken in. A household use utility spray bottle, or a small traveling cosmetic spray bottle for the bogu bag are usually sufficient.
Caring for Do
Do-dai, the lower rigid portion of the do, are made in two ways basically: with bamboo covered by leather or other materials, or with synthetic fiber and resign. Even so, various models and maker’s result in a wide range of do with different sizes and characteristics. With changes in temperature and humidity, do opening-width will change. This can be a troublesome matter, resulting in the do losing its good fit.
Bamboo do-dai especially are affected by humidity. Warm temperatures and high humidity may cause the bamboo staves to swell, in turn causing the do opening to become wider. In this case, lightly tying the do-himo, the cords together, or wrapping bands around the do when not in use, can serve to compress the doh to a smaller size. Be careful not to attempt more than a couple of centimeters at a time. The do construction has its limits and excessive compression can break the bond between staves and/or break the lacquer treatment on the outer side.
More commonly, the problem with bamboo do is shrinkage due to dry weather. This is caused by the bamboo slats dehydrating, resulting in them becoming thinner. The best course is to store the do in a humid place, such as a room with a humidifier, or near the bath area in your home. This is not always possible, so a common approach it to place a stick in the opening when the do is not in use. Also, a moist towel can be laid inside the doh. Be careful to not try to stretch your do too much at once. No more than one or two centimeters are possible at a time. Excessive stretching will split the bond between the staves and may crack the outer surface in some cases. If necessary, when using a spreader-stick, you may have to use more than one, in stages, cut just one or two centimeters wider than the inside opening at the back of the do.
Fiber do are made in only a very few sizes. The resins which they are composed of are not porous, therefore they are imperviable to humidity changes; however, temperature can cause them to widen or contract. To get and keep the proper fit, use cords to compress the do for a narrower opening, or a spreader-stick to widen and maintain a larger opening. Be careful, even though fiber do seem flexible and resilient, there is a limit after which they may break. No more than a three to 4 centimeter change should be attempted at any one time.
For all do-dai, cleaning should only be done with a moist towel, or in the worst case, with a very sparse amount of a mild soap. Care should be taken to avoid saturating the heri-kawa, the edge trim, or the mune, the chest portion, as these leather components become soft and more easily damaged when wet.
Tying the End of a Cut Himo
Unlike most other things, there are only the regular and longer size men-himo (in adult size, adult quality himo.)
The longer ones by-the-way, are for tying “Kansai-style,” the "long-way," or with the himo anchored at the top, middle bar, the tate-gane, and wrapping the himo around the outside of the chin, around and around.
The way to size men himo properly (everyone is different), is to tie on the men in normal fashion, (tenegui and all,) and have someone even out the loops until they are 40 cm or under. (We suggest 38 cm as the men himo, being braided, get longer and longer with use.) Pull the whole, tied knot, over the top and loosen the men until you can get it off. Now that you can work with the himo, (with the knot still tied and the loops made even at 38-40 cm), cut the tails to that they will be even with the loops.
After the himo is cut, if the raw ends are left as they are, they will un-ravel and the himo will become unusuable. In order to prevent that, (just like the end of the himo are tied now) you'll need to finish tie tie them (some people use cloth tape, but tying is much nicer.) About 1.5 to 2 cm from the end, un-ravel the braided himo, pull one bundle (consisting of several strands) and tie a knot at the base (where they project from the still-braided portion.) Split the bundle into two parts, wrap in opposite directions around the main body of the himo, and tie a secure knot to cinch the end of the himo together. Trim the end so that all threads are even length.
Packing Bogu Bag
Here's just a variation of the ways we normally pack our bogu bag. If you have a better idea or comment, please feel free to write to us.
Place your folded hakama in the bottom and insert your neatly tied do and tare,
Place your kote inside of your men and the ensemble into the opening of the do, this is just one of the possible arrangments....
... and here is another common way some people do it; however, note that the ago, the tsuki-target is bent and compressed.
.... the classic fashion, as espoused by the All Japan Bogu Manufactuers Association, as well. It leaves plenty of room to stuff your other goodies into......
In goes the keiko-gi, like this.....
.... or double folded like this....
... Now, I just have to remember my tenugui! and shinai bag....
We hope you'll enjoy a vigorous and satisfying kendo-keiko.
Step-by-step, let's perfect our kendo, and in the process, exercise our spirits and perfect ourselves.
In our strength, let's become gentler, kinder human beings, treat each other reasonalby, and with respect, make responsible actions and make influence, and contribute to a better global society.
....but for starters, let's have keiko!....
